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Wine Bible

Region · Wachau, Austria

Wachau

VAH-kow

Terraces on the Danube

Vineyard landscape
Vineyard landscape
Atlas plate of the looping Mosel
Wachau, Austria — vintage atlas plate.

Austria's most dramatic Riesling and Grüner valley, classified by ripeness as Steinfeder, Federspiel, and Smaragd.

  • white pepper
  • apricot
  • slate
  • citrus
  • smoke

Smaragd (the lizard) is the ripe, dry, cellar-worthy style. Federspiel is the middle, the restaurant pour. Steinfeder is light and rare. Primary rock, loess, and aspect decide whether you taste apricot or radish.

Kamptal and Kremstal next door are equally serious and often better value. The Wachau is the postcard.

Schnitzel, trout, and white asparagus.

At the table

Service

46–52 °F (8–11 °C); Smaragd a touch warmer.

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