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Wine Bible

Term

Malolactic fermentation

mal-oh-LAK-tik

The butter question

Wine grapes on the vine
Wine grapes on the vine

A bacterial conversion of sharp malic acid (green apple) into softer lactic acid (milk). It is why some Chardonnays taste buttery — and why most reds feel round.

Nearly all red wines go through malo. For whites it is a stylistic choice. Full malo plus new oak is the classic California Chardonnay recipe. Blocking malo keeps a white taut and apple-bright — typical of Chablis and many Rieslings (Riesling rarely goes through it cleanly anyway).

Diacetyl is the compound behind movie-theater butter. A little is texture; a lot is a milkshake. Lees stirring (bâtonnage) adds a different kind of creaminess without the popcorn note.

If you dislike 'buttery Chardonnay,' ask for no-malo or partial-malo bottles, or just go to Chablis.

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