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Wine Bible

Grape · Santorini, Greece

Assyrtiko

ah-SEER-tee-ko

Volcanic steel

Assyrtiko on volcanic pumice
Assyrtiko on volcanic pumice

Santorini's gift: bone-dry, high-acid, saline whites grown in basket-trained vines on volcanic pumice. One of the great terroir grapes of the last twenty years.

  • lemon
  • smoke
  • saline
  • wet stone
  • citrus peel

Profile

Bodymedium
Acidhigh
Sugardry

Assyrtiko keeps acid even in the Aegean sun. On Santorini the vines are coiled into kouloura baskets against the wind, ungrafted, sometimes a century old. The wines can taste like Chablis with a suntan and a lick of smoke.

Sweet Vinsanto from sun-dried Assyrtiko is a different, amber drink. Mainland Assyrtiko is cheaper and fruitier; the island is the point.

Grilled fish, feta, capers, and lemon. Serve cold.

At the table

Service

46–50 °F (8–10 °C).

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