France
Bordeaux
bor-DOH
Left Bank Cabernet, Right Bank Merlot, and tasting rooms that are not California. You write ahead. You do not drop in on Lafite.
Map
- When to go
- May–June and September–October. August is shut. En Primeur week is not a tourist week.
- Grapes
- Cabernet Sauvignon · Merlot · Cabernet Franc · Sémillon
Tasting rooms
Châteaux are working farms. Many visit by appointment only, often in French, often a small group. Saint-Émilion and the city (La Cité du Vin, the quais) are where you walk without a letter of introduction.
Château Smith Haut Lafitte
Pessac-Léognan
Booksmeeth oh lah-FEET
Graves that actually receives visitors. White and red, and a spa hotel next door if that's the trip.
Book. English is spoken. This is as close as Bordeaux gets to a tasting room.
Cabernet Sauvignon · Sauvignon Blanc · Smith Haut Lafitte Rouge — ask for the blanc
Château Lynch-Bages
Pauillac
Booklinch BAHZH
Pauillac you can actually get into. Village of Bages has somewhere to eat.
Appointment. Pair with lunch in Bages.
Cabernet Sauvignon · Lynch-Bages Pauillac
La Cité du Vin
Bordeaux city
Walk-inlah see-TAY doo VAN
Not a château. The museum and the view. Useful on a rain day or a first night.
Buy a ticket. Walk-up possible. The tasting at the top is a survey, not a trophy.
Many · The tasting at the top — a survey, not a trophy
Château Pavie
Saint-Émilion
Bookpah-VEE
Right Bank drama. The village is the destination; the château is the extra.
Appointment. Walk Saint-Émilion either way.
Merlot · Cabernet Franc · Château Pavie
Château Haut-Brion
Pessac
Bookoh bree-OHN
First Growth inside the city sprawl. Harder to visit than the postcard suggests.
Write well ahead. If they say no, don't take it personally.
Cabernet Sauvignon · Merlot · Haut-Brion
Château Tour Grand Faurie
Saint-Émilion
BookChâteau Tour Grand Faurie
Family Grand Cru in the village. Cellar and cave, not a coach park.
Appointment, Monday to Saturday. English is spoken.
Merlot · Cabernet Franc · Château Tour Grand Faurie
Château Champion
Saint-Émilion
BookChâteau Champion
Organic estate on the Right Bank. A short tour and three wines.
Book. Daily, by appointment.
Merlot · Château Champion
Château Mauvinon
Saint-Émilion
BookChâteau Mauvinon
Biodynamic Grand Cru. Vineyard, cellar, and a tasting that can include cheese.
Write ahead. Small.
Merlot · Cabernet Franc · Château Mauvinon
Itinerary
City, Graves, then the village
2 days
Sleep in Bordeaux. One Graves appointment. One day in Saint-Émilion on foot.
Day 1, morning
La Cité du Vin
Get the map in your head. Then the quais for lunch.
Day 1, afternoon
Smith Haut Lafitte
The working château. Spit. Taxi back.
Day 2
Saint-Émilion
Train or driver. Walk the village. One appointment if you have it.
If you have a third day
Médoc
Pauillac and a driver. Not a self-drive day.
Monday and harvest can close doors. Email in French if you can. The Route des Châteaux is not a wine trail with open barns.
Business inquiries
Have a room in Bordeaux?
Featured placement, your booking link, ninety days. Drinkers stay free.
Business inquiries